Europe Tour 2013 Part-3 #यात्रा

In the last blog on our Europe tour Part-2 journey up to Budapest was covered. This blog part-3 covers journey between Budapest-Melk-Salzburg-Munich

Blog Part-1 : Day 1: Delhi-Moscow-Munich (by air), Day 2 Munich-Nuremberg-Prague, Day Prague day 2 to 4.
Blog Part-2 Day-4 Prague to Vienna Day 5 Vienna to Budapest Day 5 to 7 
Blog Part-3 Day 7  Budapest -Melk- Salzburg Day 8 Salzburg- Munich  
Blog Part-4 Day 9 Munich to-Zurich (By Train) Day 10 Zurich -Lucerne-Mt Titlis-Zurich. Day 10 & 11 Return to Delhi via Moscow

Hotels where we stayed:
Night-1 :NH Munich airport
Nights 2&3 : Hotel Barcelo Prague
Nights 4 : Hotel Kavalier Vienna
Nights 5&6 : Hotel Mercure Budapest (Buda)
Night 7 : Hotel Ramda, Salzburg
Night 8 : Hotel Ibis Parkstad Munich
Night 9 : Hotel Walhalla Zurich

DAY-7 :

On Day 7 after bidding good bye to Budapest we proceeded towards Austria once again. Today's final destination was Sound of Music fame Salzburg- a city of Mozart. We took our breakfast in restaurant Atila of Mercure hotel and sped towards Austrian border. 

Atila in Mercure Hotel	Atila Restaurant- Budapest

We had encountered  rough road while traveling from Prague towards Austria but the road to and from Budapest to Austria was very good. 

Frozen Fountain	Restaurant- in Melk Stift with Ms Ratnawati

It was a cold day with temperature dipping every hour. We saw An Ikea store it the out skirts of Budapest and many beautiful views of mountains were very attractive by noon we reached MELK ABBEY also called Stift Melk, Melk Abbey  is a Benedictine abbey near the town of Melk,  by the bank of the Danube river. It is situated on the road leading to the Wachau valley. The abbey contains the tomb of Saint Coloman of Stockerau and the remains of several members of the House of Babenberg, Austria's first ruling dynasty. It was very cold and even the fountain at the entrance of Abbey had frozen and so we were also freezing. After visiting the abbey we needed some warm place and found a restaurant within the Abbey. We were joined by Ms Erny Ratnawati and her husband for tea and snacks.

Roof Decoration within Melk Abbey	Inside Melk Abbey

Inside Melk Abbey	Outside view of Melk Abbey

After about 1.5 Hours Stop at MELK we proceeded further to Salzburg the city of Von Trappe family and Mozart. It took about 2 hours to reach we checked in Hotel Ramda for overnight stay. 
Day-8
On day 8  we started our Sound of Music tour of Salzburg. Sound of Music was an immensely popular 1965 movie based on real story of Mar ia, an aspiring nun, who is sent as a governess to take care of seven motherless children of naval officer Von Trapp.. Soon her jovial and loving nature tames their hearts and the children become fond of her. Ultimately Maria marries their father almost double her age. The film is an adaption of memoirs of Mrs Maria Von Trapp written in 1949. Our first stop was Hellbrunn Castle. Located on Morzg locality the summer palace of Prince Archbishop was venue of Sound of Music (SOM)'s song "I am 16 going on 17". Residenzplatz Square fountain was place where some Nazi scenes were shot for sound of music. Nonnberg was the Abbey where Maria was an intern for nun-ship. We walked to the abbey and then through court yards of St Peter's Church to wards Mozart Platz. We saw Mozart's birth place too. The shops on way was decorated for upcoming Easter festival.

Sound of Music Poster	Hellbrunn Palace Salzburg

St. Erhard's Church-Salzburg	Kajetaner Church as seen from Nonnberg

Birth Place of Mozart	Koule-Dom-Salzburg

Mozart Platz	Residenzplatz Square

We started from Salzburg in the evening reaching Munich in late evening.

Our mind was reminding us that soon our this Cosmos tour will end up I started feeling sad, we had started to know and like our fellow tourists and even informal conversation were taking place between us. Will like to thank octogenarian Mrs Park from USA and Mr and Mrs Ratnawati. from Indonesia. I will like to specially thank Ms Bea Ungor, who as tour director was very professional, knowledgeable and caring. I am sharing these blogs with her over e-mail and editing or revising as per her observation, for which I thank her again. We were pleasantly surprised to know that while we were  arranging our visa and booking the "18th March 2013 COSMOS tour #6050" in India, Ms Bea was visiting world heritage ancient sites in India. 

It had snowed for whole day and  entrance to Ibis hotel was very slippery. After some time we got ready for the fare well dinner. It was a gala evening and every one enjoyed. I collected email ID of all the co-tourists. some pictures of co tourist are given here. 

Farewell dinner	Farewell dinner	Farewell dinner
Ms Park in Prague	with Co-tourist	with Co-tourist
with BeaUngor	River Cruise- Budapest	Hellbrunn-Salzburg

Farewell dinner at Munich

Ajanta Caves- a canvas on stone

Ajanta: a world heritage site

CAVES IN INDIA

There are several group of caves sites in India, mostly used as monasteries and Chaityas. I had opportunity to visit at least 5 of such group of caves Ajanta, Ellora, Kanheri (all 3 in Maharashtra), Khandgiri and Udaygiri (In Orrisa).

MY OBSESSION WITH AJANTA

I visited Ajanta first time in 1969 as a student when we had a stop over at Jalgaon. Then equipped with an  Agfa Click 3 camera without flash,  I probably took only one picture -an over all view of Ajanta. I think we did not walk beyond cave no 16 then. However, I visited again in 1997 when we had traveled with our daughter on way to Indore via Bhusaval. We however needed over night stay in Bhusaval I suggested a visit to Ajanta, which was graciously accepted by my wife and daughter. I have around 8 photos of that trip. later once in 2002 I had officially visited Aurangabad and could not resist visiting the caves again. In 2012 while on a family vacation to Nashik and Shirdi, we planned a visit to Aurangabad, Daulatabad, Ellora and Ajanta as well. I alongwith wife were  recently going through these pictures and then realized the stories the guide had narrated regarding the painting and sculptures had almost vanished from our collective memory. Now I am trying to recollect an write down some of them.

                                              Our College trip to Ajanta Caves in 1969

Our visit in 1997	One of caves as in 1997

How To Reach.

By Road. Aurangabad is only 100 km from Ajanta and 30 km from Ellora. You can hire a local taxi or travel by the state-run buses to reach the Ajanta Caves. ...

Doli Service for Cave hopping at Ajanta

By Rail. Aurangabad is well-connected to Mumbai and Pune by rail. The Jalgaon Station is the closest rail head.

In Ajanta doli service is available for handicapped or elderly. 

DISCOVERY OF CAVES :

Ajanta rock cut caves are group of about 30 worshiping halls or Chaityas and monasteries or vihars set along the horse shoe shaped gorge.  The caves were built between 2nd Century BCE till 480 CE. Caves a world heritage site since 1983  was discovered by chance in 1819 by a British Bombay Presidency officer John Smith, who saw entrance to cave no 10 when  on a hunting expedition. He however damaged some murals when he inscribing his name and date on a column. In an effort to preserve the paintings first copy of paintings were made by Robert Gill in 1844, which were destroyed in a fire at London in 1866. Later  John Griffiths, the then principal at JJ school of Arts, Mumbai, and some of his students spent 2 decades at the the caves and made  300 art works. They were sent to London and about 100 of  this was again destroyed. 166 paintings are still  in London and was last displayed in 1955. However 21 of these paintings are still available at  JJ school of arts. A photographic survey of the art work was also sponsored  by Nizam, then ruler of the area in 1920.

TIME LINE AND SPONSORSHIP :

Caves are numbered now however numbers do not suggest any chronological order.  The caves were built in 2 phases. While seven caves numbered 8,9,10,12,13,15A and 30 were built in first phase during Satvahana or Mauryan period (Historians differ on this) ie between 200 BCE to 100 CE. These caves are Hinayan caves without any idol of Buddha, probably built by community efforts. Cave no 10 was probably the earliest cave built here, These caves have less decoration based on Hinayan philosophy. Murals are mostly based on Jatakas. Historians differ regarding cave 8, and it is believed that probably it was earliest Mahayan cave from second period with an shrine added as an after thought , Buddha statue now gone was not carved out of monolith stone but may have been loose. 

Cave-9

Cave 10

Rest of the caves are based on Mahayan Buddhism and usually have Buddha idols and a separate area for worshiping or a Sanctum Sanctorum with Buddha's statue. These caves were built on both side of earlier caves and have well decorated roofs walls and columns. These caves of the second period are 1–7, 11, 14–29, some possibly extensions of earlier caves. Commissioned between 450 CE and 480 CE, these caves were sponsored caves  it is believed that Vākāṭaka Hindu  king Harisena or his ministers sponsored most of the caves. Some caves were e.g Cave no 4 was sponsored by a wealthy  devotee. Influence of Gupta dynasty of Indian Golden Era cannot be ruled out but by 450-480 CE their influence was dwindling due to internal differences and due to the efforts they had to put against white Huns, Hun Mihirgula's son Tormana was then in fact ruler of near by Malawa area. 

Cave 1


Fabric Design

Cave No-1 may be the last cave to be commissioned. It has well preserved paintings. Including famous Bodhisatva Padma Pani. Many stories are depicted through these paintings.art used here have inspired  fabric design even today. 

Cave 26

Cave-7

Cave 19

Cave-19

Cave-19- Entrance

Cave-26

Sleeping Buddha- Cave 26

Typical Vihar Layout (Later caves)

Cave-2 is similar to cave -1. Its wall paintings are in a better state of preservation.
Cave-3 Abandoned
Cave-4- Sponsored by a wealthy devotee named Mathura
Cave-5- Abandoned
Cave-6 Double story Vihar with Sanctum Sactorum and hall in both levels.

Cave-7 has a grand facade with two porticoes

Cave-8 Another unfinished vihar abandoned due to discovery of a unstable mineral layer. Almost at river level in modern time this cave was used as stores and generator room
Cave-9 Hinyan period chaitya.
Cave-10 Hinyan period chaitya.
Cave-11 5th Century Vihar.
Cave-12 Hinyan period Vihar from 200 BCE-100 CE
Cave-13 Hinyan period Vihar from 200 BCE-100 CE
Cave-14- Is  another unfinished Vihar. 
Cave-15- is a more complete Vihar.  it had paintings, 15 A is smallest Hinyan perod cave.
Cave-16-  Vihar sponsored by Varahdev, minister of Harisena. Has Buddha's life sketch
Cave-17 It has some of the best-preserved and well-known paintings of all the caves.

Cave-18 Small cave, its purpose is not known. 

Cave-19 is a Mahayan chaitya griha, of  fifth century CE with standing Buddha.

Cave-20 Fifth century Vihar. 

Cave-21-to 25 : All are Fifth century Vihar 

Cave-26 Fifth century Chaitya larger than cave 19, with Vihar design with seated Buddha in worshiping hall..Sleeping  Buddha statue is also in this cave. 

Cave-27 Its two levels are damaged, with the upper level partially collapsed

Cave-28 Unfinished Vihar

Cave-29 Unfinished Chaitya -located between caves 20-21 at higher level.

Cave-30- In 1956 a land slide closed the footpath to cave-16. During clearance of debris another Hinayan period Vihar cave was discovered at lower level between cave 15 & 16. This could be the oldest cave in Ajanta.

Welcome back to modern times !